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A Simple Guide To Speakers...
| We
get numerous calls from customers asking how to compare one
company's speakers to another. You can find two nearly identical
speaker cabinets with nearly identical components that have drastically
different specifications and prices. There are many logical
explanations for this. Before we go any further, let me make it clear
that the following guide to speakers is "our opinion" based on 33 years
in the business dealing with almost every major and minor brand of
speakers. |
1. SPEAKER CABLES AND 1/4 INCH PLUGS
Here's the most important note about speakers I can pass on to you.
NEVER use 1/4 inch phone plugs for speaker connections.
That would be best compared to having a 2 inch water pipe coming from
your street to your house, having a 1 inch water pipe running to all
the faucets in your house and connecting the two by reducing each of
them to a half inch connector.
When you use a 1/4 inch plug and jack for speaker connections, you have
less connection area than you would have if you touched the tip of one
fingernail with another. This translates into a loss of power. We have
tested two identical speaker cabinets powered by two channels of the
same amp using a speaker cord with 1/4 inch plugs on both ends for the
left speaker and on the right speaker we used a cord without any plugs
so we connected the wires directly to the red and black binding posts
on the amp and the speaker. Everyone in the room could hear the
difference in volume between the two speakers. |
|
2. IMPEDANCE: 2 OHM, 4 OHM, 8 OHM, 16 OHM
All speakers have an impedance measurement just as they have a diameter
measurement. Not all speakers are 15 inches in diameter and not all
speakers are 8 ohms. The most common 12, 15 and 18 inch woofer used in
speaker cabinets by clubs and DJ's is an 8 ohm woofer. If you have two
of them in one cabinet you can wire the two woofers in parallel to
create a 4 ohm cabinet, or you can wire them in series to create a 16
ohm cabinet. The parallel wired 4 ohm cabinet will produce much more
volume, (6dB to be exact), and would be considered much more efficient.
The series wired 16 ohm cabinet will need much more power, (4 times as
much), to produce the same volume as the 4 ohm cabinet, so it would not
be a good choice for economic reasons. Since the 16 ohm cabinet will
need more power to produce volume, many lower end companies mass
produce these cabinets and heavily advertise the high power that they
can handle, as if that makes it a better speaker than the more
efficient and lower power speaker. This is the most misleading
specification we see in advertising. One club audio company that
advertises as much or more than anyone else makes a dual 15 cabinet
with two 16 ohm woofers wired parallel to create an 8 ohm cabinet. They
advertise it as having a huge power handling capability, but in reality
it is much less efficient when used with the same amps that would
easily power other cabinets loaded with two 8 ohm woofers wired in
parallel. Another mass advertised speaker has two 4 ohm woofers wired
in series to create an 8 ohm cabinet. This is still not as efficient as
the two 8 ohm woofers wired parallel.
This is where you must make a choice. Do you want a good sounding,
efficient speaker cabinet that you can power with a small affordable
amp, or do you want a speaker that produces much less volume and you
have to buy a larger amp, but you have a little less chance of blowing.
While
we are talking about speaker impedance we need to mention something
about amplifier impedance. Most amps tell you the power output at 8
ohms, 4 ohms and 2 ohms (if the amp is capable of handling 2 ohms). An
amp is most comfortable driving an 8 ohm load. That's why the 8 ohm
rated power output is the lowest and the distortion level at 8 ohms is
also the lowest. When you connect a 4 ohm speaker to the amp, it's a
harder load for the amp to power, just like pulling a 5,000 pound
trailer is harder on your car than pulling a 2,000 pound trailer. The
power output rating is higher than at 8 ohms, but the distortion level
is also greater. Many of the popular low price amps today are not
capable of powering a 2 ohm load. It would simply heat up the power
transistors too much. For amps that can handle a 2 ohm load, it is the
hardest load for the amp to handle and causes the most heat build up
which leads to a higher level of distortion.
If you
have ever installed your own car audio system, you may have noticed
that 4 ohm and 2 ohm loads on the amps are common. That's because there
is so much road noise when driving your car that the higher distortion
level of the amp usually goes unnoticed.
|
3. MAGNET WEIGHT
This is another very misleading specification. Most people think that a
woofer with a 90 ounce magnet has to be better than a woofer with a 50
ounce magnet. Simple logic tells you that this should be true, but it
is not. We have seen many woofers with larger magnets not perform as
well as woofers with smaller magnets and we have also seen many
companies rate their magnet weights wrong. This would be like thinking
that all cars with larger engines out-perform cars with smaller
engines. There are too many other factors involved for that statement
to be true. Voice coil diameter, number of windings, size and type of
winding wire and cone material are all just as important, but you
almost never see these items listed in advertising. |
|
4. POWER: RMS, CONTINUOUS, PEAK
I have a good friend that has tested speakers in the U.S.A. for over 30
years and he gave me the best definitions for these 3 power ratings.
He sends a sweeping signal of all frequencies to the speaker and slowly
increases the power. When he feels like he is getting near the maximum
power that the speaker can handle, he extends the time before raising
the level again. When he hears the slightest distortion or smells the
coil getting hot, he backs it off 5 watts and lets it run for a few
hours. If it endures that test, it gets a "Continuous Power Rating" of
the power it handled for those hours.
RMS
is the product of a math formula and it would rarely ever be the same
as the continuous power level measured manually. In our industry the
two terms are often mistakenly used to describe the same thing. I would
rather have an honest manual measurement than a math formula.
Peak
power usually means the highest amount of power that the speaker can
handle for less than a second at a time. Although you can test a
speaker for this measurement using the same method above, it is more
common today to see speaker manufacturers double the continuous power
measurement and call that the peak power even though it may not be
technically accurate.
Just like the other measurements
of speakers we mentioned above, power handling is very misleading. We
tested a pair of speakers from one of the biggest advertising club
audio companies that were rated at 320 watts. When they arrived, they
had a spec sheet that showed the PEAK power handling at 320 watts but
the continuous power handling capability was rated at 160 watts. During
the test, the horn driver began distorting at around 100 watts when the
music had heavy bass playing. You might wonder how a speaker that
starts distorting at 100 watts can be advertised as a 320 watt speaker.
There
is no standardized method of measuring these speaker specifications.
Everybody does it however they please. Some companies choose to rate
conservatively which is better for you but doesn't look so good on
paper, while other companies grossly exaggerate their specifications to
look great in advertising but it's not so good for the customer. The
best way to measure the power handling capabilities of a speaker is to
play the same music through it that the customer will be playing
through it. Since that is not usually possible, most companies send
computer generated signals to the speaker and see how many watts it can
handle before it distorts. (That would be the point at which the voice
coil has been thrown past the edge of the upper magnet plate). If that
signal is full range and not just one frequency, and played for 4
hours, you will get a close idea of how much power the speaker can
really handle.
Unfortunately, many budget speaker
companies will send a signal that is just one frequency and crank up
the power for 30 seconds to get a high power handling reading that is
not an accurate representation of what the speaker will do with full
range music playing through it. This type of reading may be legally
"correct", but not what you and I would consider "true". Another method
we have seen used by many budget speaker companies is to take the power
handling capabilities of each individual component in the cabinet and
add them up. If they were each measured conservatively and you made a
great crossover to protect each one, this would be a better method than
the single frequency signal method, but still not as accurate as a full
range signal played for 4 hours.
|
|
5. CROSSOVERS: ELECTRONIC AND PASSIVE
A crossover limits the frequency range that reaches a speaker. Almost
everyone will say too much power blows speakers. It would be more
accurate to say that too much of the wrong frequency blows speakers.
First and most important note; I have never found anyone that disputes
the opinion that an electronic crossover is better than a passive
crossover. Here's why: an electronic crossover selects the frequencies
to be passed to the speakers at a low line level before the amplifier.
At this low level, there is no distortion and absolutely no loss of
signal. A passive crossover is usually mounted inside the speaker
cabinet and selects the frequencies to be passed to the speakers at a
very high level after the amplifier. The main problem we have seen with
these passive crossovers in budget speakers is the design of the
crossover itself. To save money, they usually scrimp on this component
a little too much. We have seen many crossovers that were designed to
handle only 50 watts installed in a cabinet that was rated at 120
watts. This is the main reason we see so many budget speakers distort
earlier than their more expensive counterparts.
There are 4 types of passive crossovers:
LOW PASS, HIGH PASS, BAND PASS, NARROW BAND PASS.
LOW
PASS crossovers allow low frequencies to pass through to the speaker
while gradually reducing the power of the higher frequencies and
cutting them off. Coils are used in low pass crossovers because they
cut out the higher frequencies.
HIGH PASS crossovers
allow the high frequencies to pass through to the speaker while
gradually reducing the power of the lower frequencies and cutting them
off. The power reduction increases as the frequencies become lower.
Capacitors are used in high pass crossovers because they cut out low
frequencies.
BAND PASS crossovers are a combination of
the two above. They only allow a certain band, or range of frequencies
to pass through to the speaker. This type of crossover is most often
used on mid range speakers where the extreme highs and lows are cut off
so they do not reach the speaker and cause it to distort.
NARROW
BAND PASS crossover must be used when the band of frequencies chosen to
reach the speaker is less than a decade apart, that is, if the high
crossover frequency is less than 10 times the low crossover frequency.
A narrow band pass crossover has the same function as the normal band
pass, however, it is wired very differently.
Crossover
points or frequencies are achieved by using different values of coils
and capacitors. There are different rates for the reduction of power,
called SLOPES. The most common are 6dB, 12dB and 18dB slopes. A 6dB
slope will reduce the power at a rate of 6dB per octave starting at the
chosen crossover frequency, creating a gradual slope of power
reduction. The 12dB and 18dB per octave slopes work the same way except
that a 12dB slope has twice as much reduction per octave as the 6dB
slope and an 18dB slope has 3 times the amount of reduction, thus
cutting off those frequencies 3 times as fast.
If you are making your own crossovers, here are a
few starting tips:
Air core coils are best for higher frequencies. Iron core coils are
best for lower frequencies. Solid iron core coils are best for low
frequencies at high power (over 300 watts). Polypropylene are the best
capacitors. Mylar capacitors are next best. Non-polarized electrolytic
are the most commonly used.
|
6.
SPL 1w/1m
This stands for Sound Pressure Level measured at 1 watt of power and at
a distance of 1 meter from the speaker. This should be a great way to
gauge the efficiency of all speakers and although there is a standard
method of performing the test, many of the budget speakers we have
tested don't come close to the manufacturers spec's.. From what I have
seen in speaker catalogs, I think most measurements have been copied
from the spec's of the individual horn or midrange components instead
of an actual reading from all components operating together in the
speaker cabinet. |
|
7. HORN DRIVERS: COMPRESSION AND PIEZO
The least expensive of the two is the Piezo driver. Most people think
of a small round tweeter when you say Piezo, but there are also larger,
threaded horn drivers that have a piezo element instead of a voice
coil. Piezo drivers have a vibrating ceramic disk that is usually
capable of producing only 2 or 3 frequencies
Because
there is no voice coil in a Piezo driver, it is usually harder to blow
than a compression driver with a voice coil. Most people don't even use
a crossover with a Piezo driver. Right now most people would be
wondering why anyone should use a compression driver if they cost more
and can be blown easier. The answer is simple, they sound better. The
Piezo is most commonly referred to as being harsh sounding because of
its 3 frequency limit. Yes, it can produce high's and a lot of volume,
but it has never produced high's as smoothly as a good compression
driver.
There are two types of compression drivers used
in our industry. The less expensive of the two has a Phenolic diaphragm
and the more expensive unit has a Titanium diaphragm. The Titanium
diaphragm is much better for reproducing the extreme high's heard when
a drummer crashes his cymbals. Both units have a heavy magnet and a
voice coil with wire windings just like any woofer. Both units need a
good crossover to protect them from harmful low frequencies.
|
8.
STEREO OR MONO
While
every club and mobile DJ has their own opinion about running their
system in stereo or mono mode, the most common method is to run the
sub-woofers mono and the rest in stereo. Most people agree that
sub-woofers running in a stereo mode tend to muddy up the low bass
where a mono mode has all sub-woofers producing the same thump at the
same time for a much more pronounced bass sound. |
|
9. SUB-WOOFERS: FRONT LOADED, HORN
LOADED, BAND PASS
FRONT
LOADED sub-woofers are cabinets that have the woofer facing the front
just like a common full range DJ speaker cabinet. These units usually
produce more bass within the first 30 feet of the cabinet, but lose
volume as you step farther away.
HORN LOADED
sub-woofers have the woofer mounted inside a large cabinet where you
can't see it. The most well known horn loaded sub cabinet is the
Cerwin-Vega Earthquake. This cabinet is designed so the sound created
by the woofer travels a precise distance through a precise opening
before it is released from the cabinet.
The distance and opening
size are calculated by math formulas based on the woofers
specifications. These units usually produce less bass within the first
30 feet of the cabinet than a front loaded cabinet would, but the sound
travels much farther.
BAND
PASS sub woofers are designed with the woofer mounted inside and have
two chambers of precise size with one chamber having one or more ports
to release only a certain band of low frequencies. The size of the two
chambers as well as the size and number of ports are the result of math
formulas based on the woofers specifications.
|
10.
LOCATION OF SPEAKERS
The best location for speakers in a night club is the same for mobile
DJ's. You want the sub-woofers on the floor near the dance area and you
want the mid's and high's about one foot above the crowds head. This is
because the mid's and high's are directional and if they are aimed at
the dancers body, the person behind them would hear less volume. Bass
is not directional and therefore does not need to be raised.
Sub-woofers usually do best on the floor and near a corner to help
resonate the bass. |
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